Georgia in winter: 7 days of skiing, baths, and festive culture

Georgia in winter: a different and wonderful country

Most Georgia travel content focuses on spring, summer, and autumn. The winter version of the country is dramatically different — and for the right traveller, it is actually better. Tbilisi is quieter, more authentic, more affordable. The sulfur baths become even more enticing when steam rises in cold air. Gudauri ski resort offers world-class Caucasus skiing without the Alps price tags. And the Georgian winter festival culture — Orthodox Christmas on January 7th, the extraordinary Alilo procession, New Year celebrations — is among the most festive in the Caucasus.

This 7-day itinerary is designed around December–February, though much of it applies to the entire winter period.

Day 1: Tbilisi arrival — winter city atmosphere

Arrive in winter Tbilisi. The city in December has a festive atmosphere — Christmas decorations on Rustaveli Avenue (Georgia celebrates Orthodox Christmas on January 7th), open-air markets, chestnut vendors on street corners, and the smell of mulled wine (Georgian-style: red wine with spices and walnuts) from market stalls.

Check into accommodation in the Old Town — winter rates are significantly lower than summer. Evening: the traditional wine bar experience at Vino Underground or G.Vino, warmed by amber wine and Georgian food.

Day 2: Tbilisi museums and the sulfur baths

Winter is the ideal season for Tbilisi’s excellent museums — queues are minimal and the atmospheric interiors feel more intimate in cold weather. The Georgian National Museum (Rustaveli Avenue), the Simon Janashia Museum of Georgia, and the Open Air Ethnographic Museum (a collection of traditional Georgian architectural structures from across the country, reassembled in a park) all reward winter visits.

Afternoon: the sulfur baths at Abanotubani. In winter, soaking in 38–42°C natural sulfur water while steam rises from the domed rooftops above is a genuinely magical sensory experience. See our thermal baths guide.

Day 3: Mtskheta in winter and evening supra

Drive or take a marshrutka to Mtskheta (30 minutes from Tbilisi). The ancient capital in winter — possibly with light snow on the rooftops and the forested hills — has a particularly atmospheric quality. Sveti-tskhoveli Cathedral with snow on the churchyard, Jvari Monastery above with the frozen rivers below: this is when the medieval landscape feels most connected to its own history.

Return to Tbilisi for lunch. Evening: arrange a traditional Georgian supra experience — a cooking class with a Tbilisi family, culminating in a genuine Georgian feast with toasts. This is one of the most meaningful Georgia experiences at any time of year.

Book a Tbilisi cooking class and family supra evening

Days 4–5: Gudauri ski resort

Drive north to Gudauri (2 hours via the Georgian Military Highway). Check into resort accommodation.

Gudauri ski resort runs from approximately 1,990m to 3,276m elevation — some of the highest skiable terrain in the Caucasus. The resort has been significantly upgraded with European-standard gondola and chairlift infrastructure. Snow conditions from December to April are generally reliable due to the altitude and the mountain exposure.

Day 4: A full ski or snowboard day. The terrain suits all levels — beginners have gentle slopes near the base, advanced skiers and off-piste enthusiasts have extensive high-altitude terrain.

Day 5: Morning skiing, then an afternoon paragliding flight. Gudauri is one of the very few places in the world where you can ski and paraglide on the same day. The winter tandem paragliding experience — soaring over snow-covered peaks — is extraordinary.

Book tandem paragliding at Gudauri

Evening: the resort’s restaurants serve excellent Georgian mountain food — hearty, rich dishes designed for cold-weather eating. Kubdari, bean dishes, and mulled wine.

Day 6: Borjomi winter spa

Drive south from Gudauri via Tbilisi (2 hours) to Borjomi (additional 2 hours). The mineral spring spa town in winter is quiet and atmospheric — fewer tourists, more locals using the facilities as they have done for generations.

The Borjomi mineral water park in winter: steam rising from the outdoor mineral springs, bare trees, and a genuinely restorative quietness. Take the mineral water baths, drink the spring water, and walk in the Borjomi Gorge forest.

Return to Tbilisi by evening.

Day 7: Winter markets and Georgian Christmas preparation

Final Tbilisi day. If visiting around Orthodox Christmas (January 7th), the Alilo procession — a Georgian tradition where carolers dressed in white walk through the city streets carrying candles and a large cross — is one of the most visually beautiful and culturally significant events in the Georgian calendar.

The Dezerter Bazaar in winter has seasonal specialities: gozinaki (honey-walnut brittle traditionally eaten at New Year), dried fruits, walnuts, and the preserved jams and pickles made from the summer harvest. Stock up on Georgian winter food to take home.

Departure from Tbilisi.

Georgia’s winter festivals

Orthodox Christmas (January 7th): The Alilo procession through Tbilisi is extraordinary. Participants dress in traditional white clothing, carry crosses and candles, and process through the Old Town toward Mtskheta. Food is collected along the route for charity.

New Year: Georgians celebrate New Year (January 1st) with significant festivities. The New Year supra is one of the most elaborate of the year — the tamada’s toasts on New Year’s Eve are particularly significant and heartfelt.

Tbilisoba: A city festival in October (sometimes extending into early winter) celebrating Tbilisi’s cultural heritage with music, dancing, and food.

Winter food experiences

Georgia’s winter food has its own seasonal register, and it is excellent. The dishes that appear in winter:

Gozinaki: Honey-walnut brittle, traditionally eaten at New Year and Orthodox Christmas. Made from caramelised honey with whole walnuts, pressed and cut into slabs. Available at Dezerter Bazaar from late December. The best versions are handmade rather than industrially produced — look for vendors with homemade batches at the market.

Lobiani: Bean-filled bread — the satisfying winter version of khachapuri, with mashed spiced beans rather than cheese inside. A Gudauri ski day lunch staple, eaten with tkemali sauce.

Chikhirtma: A warming chicken soup thickened with egg yolk and soured with pomegranate juice or wine vinegar. Completely different in texture and flavour from any other Georgian soup — more like a velouté than a broth. Found at traditional restaurants throughout winter.

Mulled wine Georgian-style: Not European-style spiced wine, but Georgian-style: red wine (often Saperavi) heated with cinnamon, cloves, and occasionally walnuts. Served in cups from market stalls in December. The Dezerter Bazaar vendors serve it from large pots.

Khinkali in winter: This is genuinely one of the best khinkali seasons. The belly of a soup dumpling filled with hot meat broth is its own form of winter warming. Order at a dedicated khinkali restaurant rather than a tourist establishment. See our khinkali guide.

Badagi: Grape must thickened with flour and dried — a winter sweet somewhere between jam and candy. Made in autumn from the grape harvest and consumed through winter. Find it at Dezerter Bazaar.

What winter Georgia does differently

Winter changes Georgia in specific and mostly positive ways for travellers who embrace it:

The wine bar experience: Tbilisi’s wine bars are best in winter. The rooms are warm and dim; the amber wine is particularly suited to cold weather; and the winemakers who supply the bars are often in town themselves, having completed the autumn harvest and cellar work. You are more likely to meet a Georgian wine producer at Vino Underground in February than in July. See our wine tasting in Tbilisi guide.

The museum experience: Georgia’s museums — the National Museum on Rustaveli, the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography — are never crowded in winter. The Gold Fund collection of the National Museum, which can have queues in summer, is accessible with no waiting. The medieval icon collections from Svaneti and Kakheti are extraordinary and often overlooked by travellers who spend more time on outdoor activities.

The Gudauri question: Is Gudauri worth it as a ski destination? For European skiers accustomed to the Alps, Gudauri offers terrain range (1,990m to 3,276m), infrastructure (European-standard gondola), reliable snow (high altitude, exposed to northern Caucasus snowfall), and prices approximately 40–60% lower than comparable Alpine resorts. The resort is smaller than major European ski areas but has excellent off-piste terrain for experienced skiers. See our Gudauri ski resort guide.

Winter travel practical notes

What to pack: Tbilisi winters are cold (0–10°C days, colder at night) but manageable with a proper coat. Gudauri requires full ski gear including thermals, waterproof jacket, and trousers. The sulfur baths make everything feel more comfortable — pack a swimsuit and sandals for the bath.

Road conditions: The Georgian Military Highway to Gudauri is generally well maintained in winter — it serves the ski resort and is a priority route. Mountain roads beyond the main highway may be icy or closed. Check conditions before any off-highway driving.

Prices: Winter (outside the Gudauri ski peak) is Georgia’s cheapest period. Accommodation rates in Tbilisi can be 30–50% lower than summer. Exception: Gudauri ski resort accommodation at peak season (January–February) approaches European resort prices.

Reduced tourism: Winter Tbilisi is significantly less crowded than summer. Restaurants have tables available without booking; museums are peaceful; the authentic daily life of the city is more visible without the tourist layer over it.

Light: Winter days are short (sunset around 17:00 in December, 18:00 in February). Plan outdoor activities for the morning and early afternoon. The short days actually benefit the wine bar culture — long, dark winter evenings are ideal for extended amber wine sessions.

Related guides

• Georgia in December — festive Tbilisi and ski season opening
• Georgia in January — Orthodox Christmas and peak ski season
• Georgia in February — best skiing month and wine cellar visits
• Gudauri ski resort guide — slopes, booking, and practical details
• Thermal baths guide — the sulfur baths in winter detail
• Wine tasting in Tbilisi — wine bars for winter evenings