Tskaltubo: Stalin's spa town and its abandoned sanatoriums

The spa town that the Soviet Union built

Tskaltubo is one of the most unusual places in Georgia — a purpose-built spa town that under Stalin’s patronage became the most celebrated health resort in the Soviet Union, fell into complete collapse after independence, spent two decades as the country’s largest concentration of internal refugees housed in the decaying shells of its sanatoriums, and has now begun a complicated second life as both luxury resort (in its restored sections) and atmospheric ruin (in its still-abandoned sections).

The town’s story combines geology, political history, architectural monumentalism, post-Soviet decline, and contemporary preservation debates into a single visitable destination. For travellers interested in Soviet heritage, architectural photography, abandoned-building exploration, or simply unusual places, Tskaltubo is among the most rewarding destinations in the country.

It also has excellent natural mineral waters — radon-rich springs that form the original reason for the town’s existence and still offer serious spa treatments for visitors who want the full experience. This guide covers all of it.

The waters

Tskaltubo’s mineral springs produce naturally warm (33–35°C) radon-rich waters that have been used for medicinal bathing since at least the 7th century. Georgian literary references to the waters date to the medieval period; they entered Russian imperial attention in the 19th century and became a formal spa destination in the late 1800s.

The waters’ properties — gently warm, mildly radioactive from dissolved radon, and rich in bicarbonate and calcium — are considered beneficial for rheumatic conditions, nervous system issues, and circulation problems. Modern medical consensus regards radon water therapy cautiously (the radioactivity is low but real), and visitors with specific medical conditions should consult a doctor before taking extended treatment courses.

For a standard visitor, a single bath or two in the restored facilities is harmless and pleasant. The warm water has a distinctive sensation — softer and more enveloping than ordinary hot water, likely due to the radon and mineral content.

Stalin’s favourite

The transformation of Tskaltubo from regional bathing village to flagship Soviet resort happened under Stalin’s direct patronage in the 1930s and 1940s. Stalin — who suffered from rheumatic arthritis — took the Tskaltubo waters personally and directed major investment into the town. The great sanatoriums built in this period were intended to extend the therapeutic benefit to a wide Soviet elite; the most famous (Sanatorium Shakhtiori, “Miner”) was built for the coal mining industry’s senior workers.

The sanatoriums of Tskaltubo’s peak era (1930s–1970s) were extraordinary buildings. Stalinist neoclassical facades with monumental colonnades. Grand entrance halls with chandeliers and marble staircases. Ballrooms, theatres, cinemas, libraries, and extensive medical bath facilities. Accommodation for hundreds of guests at each institution, usually for multi-week courses of treatment. The architectural ambition reflected the genuine Soviet belief in the dignity of mass healthcare and workers’ holidays.

At its peak, Tskaltubo welcomed over 125,000 visitors a year. The town’s infrastructure — a central park with a bathing complex, railway station, theatre, shops — was designed to serve this population while maintaining an atmosphere of discreet luxury.

The collapse

The independence of Georgia in 1991 ended central Soviet funding for Tskaltubo’s sanatoriums overnight. Many closed immediately; others limped on with declining occupancy until they too closed in the mid-1990s.

The Abkhazian war of 1992–93 created a humanitarian crisis that redirected Tskaltubo’s history in a particular way: approximately 5,000 internally displaced Georgians, fleeing Abkhazia, were housed in the abandoned sanatoriums as emergency accommodation. What was intended as temporary lodging became multi-decade occupation. Families lived in rooms originally designed as hotel accommodation for single-week stays, without running water in many cases, maintaining basic life in vast decaying buildings. The contrast between monumental architecture and displaced-persons camp conditions became one of the most striking post-Soviet scenes in Georgia.

Programmes beginning in the late 2000s gradually relocated the displaced families to purpose-built housing. The sanatoriums were emptied over the course of a decade. What they have become since varies dramatically from building to building.

The abandoned sanatoriums today

Several of Tskaltubo’s sanatoriums remain in extensive ruins, and visiting them — with appropriate caution — is one of the most distinctive experiences available in Georgia.

Sanatorium Medea: Among the most dramatically abandoned. The main building’s grand staircase, ballroom, and theatre are substantially intact as ruins, with fading frescoed ceilings and collapsed chandeliers. Best visited with local guidance.

Sanatorium Imereti: Large classical complex with dining hall, concert hall, and extensive bath facilities — all abandoned and atmospheric.

Sanatorium Metalurgi: Dramatic modernist/brutalist structure still visible from the road, slowly being explored and photographed by international visitors.

Sanatorium Tbilisi: Partially restored, partially abandoned — a useful reference point for the full arc of Tskaltubo’s history.

Entering abandoned buildings is not formally regulated but is at your own risk. Floors may be unstable; ceilings are liable to collapse in some buildings; basements can be flooded. Sensible precautions:

• Do not go alone
• Wear sturdy closed shoes
• Bring a torch (buildings are dark even in daylight)
• Do not disturb remaining belongings or structures
• Respect any locked doors or “do not enter” signs
• Photograph but do not souvenir hunt

Local guides in Tskaltubo can be arranged through the visitor centre or your accommodation; they know which buildings are safe and provide context for what you are seeing.

The Radisson Collection

The most significant contemporary development at Tskaltubo is the restoration of the former Sanatorium Shakhtiori into the Radisson Collection — a five-star hotel that opened in 2024 within the original Stalinist building, preserving the facade, public spaces, and much of the original detail while converting the interior to modern hotel standards.

The result is an unusual hotel — a luxury property occupying one of the most historically loaded buildings in the region, with the other nine Sanatoriums of the town in various states of ruin around it. Staying at the Radisson Collection allows comfortable access to the town’s abandoned sanatorium circuit, the springs, and Prometheus Cave, while experiencing the restored version of Soviet Tskaltubo.

Other accommodation options include mid-range hotels in central Tskaltubo and guesthouses suitable for overnight or short stays.

Central bathing complex

The central bathing complex in Tskaltubo’s main park — the original public bath house — continues to operate. The building is a grand Stalinist structure with marble-faced halls, dozens of individual bathing rooms, and a central treatment area.

Basic bathing treatments are available to walk-in visitors at modest prices (30–100 GEL depending on the package). Comprehensive treatment courses — the traditional multi-day spa regimens — are available by booking through the sanatorium management. The experience of taking a radon bath in the original Stalinist bath house is not replicable anywhere else, and worth the modest investment.

Prometheus Cave

Prometheus Cave — the largest and most developed show cave in Georgia — is 20 minutes from Tskaltubo. Most visitors to Tskaltubo combine the spa town with Prometheus as a natural complement: the cave’s vast limestone chambers, coloured lighting, optional underground boat ride, and dramatic scale make it the essential natural attraction of western Georgia.

For full cave details see the Prometheus Cave guide.

Book a Prometheus Cave and Martvili Canyon day trip with GetYourGuide

Other nearby sites

Sataplia Reserve: The dinosaur footprints, karst cave, and glass viewing platform 15 minutes from Tskaltubo. See the Sataplia Reserve guide.

Kutaisi city: 15 kilometres away, with Bagrati Cathedral, the Motsameta Monastery, Gelati Monastery, and an excellent restaurant scene. See the Imereti destination guide.

Martvili and Okatse canyons: 45 minutes to an hour from Tskaltubo, both among the best natural sites in Georgia. See the Martvili Canyon guide and Okatse Canyon guide.

Practical information

Getting to Tskaltubo:

• From Kutaisi: 15 minutes by taxi (25–40 GEL), regular marshrutka service
• From Tbilisi: 3.5–4 hours by road; combine with Imereti circuit
• By train: Tbilisi–Kutaisi overnight train, then taxi to Tskaltubo

Tskaltubo is typically reached via Kutaisi, which has its own international airport receiving budget flights from several European cities.

Duration:

• Half-day: Central park, baths, one or two abandoned sanatoriums, Prometheus Cave in the afternoon
• Full day: More thorough exploration of sanatoriums, spa treatment, Prometheus
• Two days: Full circuit plus Sataplia, Gelati, and Kutaisi

Season: Tskaltubo is visitable year-round. Summer is most comfortable for outdoor exploration. The abandoned sanatoriums have particular atmospheric quality in autumn mist or winter snow. The restored spa facilities operate year-round.

Food: Central Tskaltubo has modest local restaurants. The Radisson Collection offers full restaurant service. For better food options, Kutaisi (15 minutes away) has significantly more choice.

Language: English is limited outside the Radisson Collection and major tourist services. Russian widely spoken.

Photography: Permitted throughout the town and in abandoned buildings. The sanatoriums have become internationally known photography subjects; bring a sturdy camera or phone with good low-light performance.

A two-day Tskaltubo and Imereti itinerary

Day 1:

• Morning: Tskaltubo central park, springs, and abandoned sanatorium exploration
• Lunch in Tskaltubo or Kutaisi
• Afternoon: Prometheus Cave

Day 2:

• Morning: Sataplia Reserve
• Lunch in Kutaisi
• Afternoon: Gelati Monastery and Motsameta Monastery

FAQ

Is Tskaltubo safe to visit? The town itself is entirely safe for normal tourist visits. The abandoned buildings require caution — unstable floors, falling debris, flooded basements. Go with local guidance if exploring.

Can I actually take the waters at Tskaltubo? Yes — the central bathing complex operates for both walk-in visitors and multi-day treatment courses. The Radisson Collection offers integrated spa treatments using the mineral waters.

What makes Tskaltubo unique? The combination of functioning spa, abandoned Soviet monumental architecture, internally displaced person history, and proximity to Prometheus Cave creates a travel destination unlike any other in Georgia or the region.

Is Tskaltubo a good overnight stop? Yes — one or two nights at the Radisson Collection provides an excellent base for exploring both the town and the surrounding Imereti attractions.

Is it ethical to visit abandoned sanatoriums? The sanatoriums are now largely emptied of the displaced families who lived in them. Visiting and photographing is generally considered acceptable, provided you behave respectfully and do not damage anything. Follow any local guidance on specific buildings.

Related guides

• Borjomi mineral springs
• Best thermal baths in Georgia
• Prometheus Cave guide
• Sataplia Reserve guide
• Soviet heritage in Georgia
• Imereti destination guide