Qvevri winemaking: Georgia's 8,000-year tradition

Why qvevri wine is unlike anything else you’ve tasted

When you drink an amber wine made in a qvevri, you are tasting a method that predates the Roman Empire, the pyramids of Egypt, and virtually every other winemaking tradition on the planet. Georgia’s qvevri tradition stretches back at least 8,000 years — archaeological evidence from sites in the Kvemo Kartli region shows wine residue in clay vessels dating to 6000 BCE. In 2013 UNESCO inscribed the ancient Georgian traditional qvevri wine-making method on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list, recognising it as one of humanity’s most significant living traditions.

Understanding qvevri winemaking changes how you experience Georgia entirely. Every village cellar, every family supra table, every amber glass poured by a smiling winemaker in Kakheti tells this same ancient story.

What is a qvevri?

A qvevri (also spelled kvevri) is a large, egg-shaped clay vessel made from local terracotta. They range from a few litres to over 3,000 litres in capacity. Unlike amphorae, which have a pointed base designed for transport, qvevri are made to be buried — typically up to the neck — in the earthen floor of a marani (wine cellar). The soil acts as natural insulation, keeping the wine at a stable temperature of around 14–16°C year-round.

Qvevri are coated on the inside with beeswax, which seals the porous clay and gives the vessel a long working life. A well-maintained qvevri can be used for generations, with some in active use being over 100 years old. After each harvest, the vessels are scrubbed with cherry twigs, rinsed with spring water, and recoated with fresh beeswax — a ritual as important as the winemaking itself.

The making of a qvevri is itself a specialist craft. Master craftsmen in the village of Varketili in Imereti and the Kakheti region shape vessels by hand using a coiling technique, then fire them in large kilns. The number of active qvevri makers has declined sharply over the past century, though a small revival is now underway thanks to rising global interest in natural and orange wine.

The winemaking process step by step

Harvest and crushing

In Georgia the grape harvest, called rtveli, takes place in September and October. Families gather together to pick grapes — a tradition that is as much social event as agricultural task. Grapes are typically foot-trodden in a wooden trough called a satsnakheli, though modern producers may use mechanical crushers.

Fermentation in qvevri

What makes Georgian qvevri wine distinctive is that fermentation happens with the grape skins, seeds, and stems all included — what the wine world now calls “skin contact” or “orange wine” when applied to white grapes. The must (crushed grapes and juice) is poured into the qvevri, which is then sealed with a wooden or stone lid covered in beeswax. Fermentation begins naturally from wild yeasts on the grape skins, lasting between one and three weeks. The cap of skins is punched down daily.

Maceration and ageing

After fermentation, the wine rests on its skins — sometimes for as long as six months in the traditional Kakhetian method. This extended skin contact extracts tannins, phenols, and deep amber colour from the grape skins. The result is a wine that looks and behaves differently from conventional white wine: it has the structure and tannic grip of a red, the aromatics of a white, and a colour ranging from pale gold to deep copper-amber.

In Imereti and other western regions, winemakers use less skin contact — sometimes just a few weeks — producing lighter, more approachable amber wines.

Sealing and maturation

Once the winemaker is satisfied with extraction, the wine is pressed off the skins and transferred to clean qvevri for maturation. These are sealed completely with a stone lid and beeswax, and the wine is left to clarify and develop over the winter months. The lack of oxygen (the vessel is full with no headspace) means the wine evolves slowly and cleanly.

Bottling

In spring the marani is opened and the wine is tasted. If it is ready, it is bottled or decanted into clay jugs for immediate consumption. Many Georgian families drink their qvevri wine directly from ceramic pitchers throughout the year, never bottling it at all.

The regional differences in qvevri winemaking

Georgia has several distinct winemaking regions, and the qvevri tradition is practised differently across them.

Kakheti is the heartland — producing around 70% of Georgia’s wine. Kakhetian winemaking uses the longest skin contact, often four to six months, yielding the deepest amber wines with significant tannin and complexity. The dominant grapes are Rkatsiteli and Kisi for whites (which become ambers), and Saperavi for reds.

Kartli produces lighter-bodied wines. The altitude and cooler climate give wines a bright acidity even when made with skin contact.

Imereti in western Georgia has its own distinct style: partial skin contact (20–50% of the skins used) for shorter periods. Imeretian amber wines tend to be more delicate and mineral than Kakhetian styles.

Racha-Lechkhumi produces semi-sweet natural wines — most famously Khvanchkara, said to have been Stalin’s favourite wine — in tiny quantities from steep mountain terraces.

Adjara and Samegrelo have their own indigenous varieties and qvevri traditions, less well-known internationally but increasingly explored by wine tourists.

Indigenous grape varieties

Georgia is home to over 500 documented indigenous grape varieties — more than any other country in the world. These are not international varieties adapted to Georgian soil, but ancient cultivars that evolved here over millennia.

The most important for qvevri wines include:

• Rkatsiteli: The workhorse of Kakheti, producing structured amber wines with notes of dried apricot, beeswax, and spice.
• Kisi: Aromatic and complex, producing some of Georgia’s most praised amber wines.
• Mtsvane Kakhuri: Aromatic, floral, with citrus and herb notes.
• Chinuri: Light and fresh, mainly from Kartli.
• Tsitska: The main white grape of Imereti, bright and tart.
• Tsolikouri: Widely planted in western Georgia, versatile and food-friendly.
• Saperavi: Georgia’s great red grape, deeply pigmented, tannic, and long-lived.
• Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli: The two varieties blended in Khvanchkara.

Trying wines from multiple indigenous varieties is one of the great pleasures of visiting Georgian wine country. You can do this through wine tours in Tbilisi or by visiting wineries directly in Kakheti. Our wine tasting in Tbilisi guide has the best bars and shops to try them all in one place.

Natural wine and qvevri: the global revival

The rise of the natural wine movement in Europe and beyond has brought enormous international attention to Georgian qvevri wines since around 2010. Sommeliers in London, Paris, New York, and Tokyo began championing amber wines — and the wines of producers like Pheasant’s Tears, Iago’s Wine, CinCin, and Ramaz Nikoladze became sought-after internationally.

This attention has been a double-edged sword. It has brought prosperity to small Georgian winemakers and preserved the qvevri tradition. But it has also attracted commercial operators who market industrial wine in qvevri bottles without genuine traditional methods. When visiting Georgia, seek out producers who actually ferment and age in qvevri rather than those who merely use qvevri as a branding tool.

The best way to distinguish genuine qvevri producers is skin contact: authentic amber wine from qvevri will have colour, tannin, and structure. A pale, clean, commercial-tasting white wine labelled “qvevri wine” is almost certainly not the real thing.

Where to experience qvevri winemaking in person

Wine cellars open to visitors

Many family wineries across Kakheti welcome visitors to their marani. The experience of descending into a cool, earthy cellar to see rows of buried qvevri, smell the beeswax and must, and taste wine directly from the vessel is genuinely unforgettable.

Key villages for cellar visits include Sighnaghi, Telavi, Gurjaani, Kvareli, Tsinandali, and the villages of the Alazani Valley. Most family operations do not charge for tastings but appreciate a bottle purchase or a small donation.

Harvest participation

If you visit Georgia in September or October during rtveli, many wineries welcome visitors to participate in the harvest. You can pick grapes, help with the treading, and share a celebratory meal with the winemaking family. It is one of the most immersive cultural experiences Georgia offers.

Our Kakheti wine region guide has a full list of top wineries to visit, many of which offer harvest participation.

Wine tourism infrastructure

The town of Sighnaghi, perched above the Alazani Valley, has become Georgia’s wine tourism hub. It offers a good mix of boutique hotels, wine bars, and cellar visits within walking distance. Telavi, the regional capital, has more practical infrastructure and several excellent wineries within 20 minutes by car.

For an organised introduction, a guided wine tour from Tbilisi is the easiest way to visit multiple producers in a single day.

Book a full-day Kakheti wine tour with 9 tastings from Tbilisi

Qvevri wine tasting notes: what to expect

If you have never tasted qvevri wine, here is what to expect:

Colour: From pale gold (Imeretian style, short skin contact) to deep amber-orange-copper (Kakhetian style, long skin contact).

Aroma: Dried apricot, orange peel, beeswax, walnut, chamomile, dried herbs, sometimes a slight oxidative note of sherry or manzanilla.

Palate: Tannins — yes, tannins in a white wine. The grip and structure of red wine combined with the aromatics of white. Often very dry, sometimes with grippy, textured finish.

Food pairing: Extraordinarily versatile. The tannin and acidity cut through fatty foods brilliantly — grilled meats, aged cheeses, walnuts, salty churchkhela, rich walnut sauces. This is not a wine for sipping alone; it demands food.

First-time tasters sometimes find qvevri wine challenging. Many describe an acquired taste that, once acquired, makes conventional white wine seem simple and one-dimensional.

The marani: Georgia’s sacred cellar

In traditional Georgian culture, the marani is more than a wine cellar — it is a sacred space. Old superstitions hold that a woman should not enter the marani during fermentation, and that certain prayers must be said before the harvest. A cross is often painted above the cellar door.

Some historic marani date back hundreds of years and are architectural treasures in their own right. The marani at Tsinandali Estate, for example, houses one of the oldest wine collections in the world.

Visiting a traditional marani gives insight into the deep connection between Georgian Orthodox Christianity, agriculture, and winemaking. Wine here is not merely a drink but a civilisational artifact.

Planning your qvevri wine experience

Best time to visit: Harvest (rtveli) is in September–October, when you can participate in the grape picking and pressing. Spring (April–May) is also excellent — the marani are open, wine is fresh, and Kakheti is green and beautiful.

Getting there: Tbilisi is the gateway. Kakheti is a 1.5–2 hour drive east. Day trips are feasible but a two-night stay in Sighnaghi or Telavi is much more rewarding.

What to buy: Seek out small-production amber wines from family wineries. Look for the words “qvevri” and “skin contact” on the label. Prices range from 15–60 GEL for bottles purchased directly from producers; significantly more at specialist wine bars.

Our amber wine guide goes deeper into how to taste and buy orange wines in Georgia and understand the different styles.

FAQ

What does qvevri mean? Qvevri (also kvevri) is the Georgian word for the large clay vessel used for winemaking. The name comes from the Georgian verb meaning “to bury” — a reference to the practice of burying the vessel in the earth.

Is qvevri wine the same as orange wine? Georgian qvevri wine made from white grapes with skin contact is indeed a type of orange or amber wine. Georgia is considered the birthplace of this style, though similar traditions exist in Slovenia, Italy, and parts of the Caucasus.

Why is the qvevri buried? Burying the qvevri in the earth keeps the wine at a stable temperature year-round, typically 14–16°C. This is ideal for slow fermentation and maturation without refrigeration.

How long does wine age in a qvevri? Traditionally, six months to a year. Modern producers sometimes age longer — two to three years — for premium wines.

Can I visit qvevri winemakers as a tourist? Absolutely. Many family operations in Kakheti and other wine regions welcome visitors. A guide or a booked tour makes it easier to find the best producers and ensures a warm welcome.

What food pairs best with qvevri wine? Georgian food — khinkali, khachapuri, mtsvadi (grilled meat), walnut dishes — is designed alongside qvevri wine. Aged cheeses, charcuterie, and anything fatty or salty works beautifully.

The scientific explanation for why qvevri wine tastes different

Beyond the cultural and historical dimensions, there are concrete scientific reasons why qvevri wine has a distinctly different sensory profile from conventionally made wine.

Terracotta porosity and micro-oxygenation: Unlike stainless steel (which is completely oxygen-impermeable) or new oak barrels (which add tannin and vanilla flavour compounds), terracotta is slightly porous. This allows a controlled micro-oxygenation of the wine — enough oxygen exchange to allow the wine to develop slowly and integrate, not enough to oxidise it. The beeswax lining modulates this further.

Constant temperature: Buried in the earth, a qvevri maintains 14–16°C year-round regardless of ambient temperature. This slow, cool fermentation and maturation produces wines with more complex aromatic development and greater longevity than wines fermented at higher temperatures.

Whole cluster fermentation: Including stems (which is standard in Kakhetian qvevri winemaking) adds tannin and structure, and also introduces enzymes that affect the aromatic profile of the wine. The stems buffer acidity and add a distinctive drying quality to the finish.

Wild yeasts: No commercial yeasts are added in authentic qvevri winemaking. Fermentation begins spontaneously from the wild yeasts present on the grape skins — specifically the diverse Lachancea, Hanseniaspora, and Saccharomyces populations that have evolved in Kakheti’s vineyards over centuries. This produces a more complex and site-specific fermentation than commercial yeast strains allow.

Extended maceration: Six months of skin contact extracts not just tannin but hundreds of phenolic compounds, amino acids, and aromatic precursors that shorter maceration never reaches. Some of these compounds develop further during the long maturation in the sealed qvevri, creating flavour complexity that takes years to fully express.

Visiting a qvevri maker

The craft of qvevri making is practised by a small and shrinking number of specialist potters. The main centres are in the Imereti region (the village of Shrosha near Zestaponi is particularly known) and in parts of Kakheti. A handful of master craftsmen carry the knowledge of how to select, prepare, and fire clay to produce vessels capable of lasting a century.

Visiting a working qvevri potter is one of the most unusual craft experiences in Georgia. The process begins with sourcing specific clay — not all clay works for qvevri, and potters often have secret deposits they guard carefully. The clay is prepared by hand over days, removing impurities and achieving the right consistency. The vessel is built by coiling — long ropes of clay spiralled upward and smoothed — over a period of weeks for larger vessels. The firing in a wood-fuelled kiln is the most critical stage; the temperature and timing determine whether the vessel will be strong enough to hold wine for decades.

Contact the Georgian Wine Agency or local tourism boards in Imereti for introductions to working qvevri potters who accept visitors.

Qvevri wine in Georgian Orthodox Christianity

The relationship between qvevri wine and the Georgian Orthodox Church is deep and theologically significant. Wine is central to the Christian Eucharist, and in Georgia the vine has been a Christian symbol since the 4th century — the story of Nino (the Syrian woman who brought Christianity to Georgia) includes a cross woven from grapevine, still preserved in the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta.

Georgian monastic communities have made wine in qvevri for as long as the monasteries have existed. The Davit Gareja monastery complex, the monasteries of Kakheti, and the great mountain monasteries of Svaneti all maintained winemaking operations. The monastery wine was not merely ceremonial — it was a practical necessity for the Eucharist and a product that supported the monastic economy.

Today, several Georgian monasteries continue to make wine in qvevri. The wines are sometimes available to visitors — a glass of monastery wine in the marani courtyard of a functioning Georgian monastery is an experience that carries both historical and spiritual weight.

Learning qvevri winemaking

For those who want to go beyond tasting and understand the process from the inside, several options exist:

Harvest participation: During rtveli (September–October), family wineries across Kakheti welcome visitors to participate in grape picking, pressing, and the first stage of qvevri filling. See our best wineries guide for wineries that accept harvest participants.

Winemaking courses: A small number of Georgian wine schools offer multi-day courses on traditional qvevri winemaking, covering viticulture, harvesting, the winemaking process, and cellar management.

Extended cellar stays: Some guesthouses in Kakheti are attached to working family wineries where guests can observe the complete seasonal cycle — if you time your visit for harvest and stay for a week, you will witness the entire process from grape to fermenting must.

The most important thing to understand about qvevri winemaking is that it cannot be learned from a book. It requires sensory education — the smell of active fermentation, the feel of the cap when punching down, the taste of wine at different stages of development. This is knowledge that Georgian winemaking families accumulate over generations.