Juta to Chaukhi Pass and Abudelauri Lakes: Georgia's great alpine day hike

The Caucasus in concentrated form

There is a moment, shortly after cresting the Chaukhi Pass at 3,338 metres, when the landscape resolves into something almost theatrical. Behind you, the granite towers of the Chaukhi massif — six, eight, ten spires of rock rising from the ridge like a broken crown — catch the morning light. Ahead, the three Abudelauri Lakes lie below in their glacial cirque: one blue, one green, one white, each fed from a different source, each tinted by its own chemistry. The Caucasus main ridge sweeps away on both sides. The silence, at that altitude, is total.

This is why the Juta–Chaukhi Pass route has become, in the space of a few years, one of the most coveted day hikes in Georgia. Not because it is easy — the climb to the pass is long and relentless, and the descent to the lakes requires careful footwork — but because the reward is so precisely calibrated to the effort. The Chaukhi towers are among the most striking rock formations in the entire Caucasus. The Abudelauri Lakes, colour-coded by geology, are genuinely surreal. And the whole thing can, for fit hikers, be accomplished in a single long day from Juta village.

Those with more time, and more sense, spend a night by the lakes and take the full Juta-to-Roshka traverse the following day. Either approach works. Both are exceptional.

At a glance

Detail	Information
Total distance (day hike loop)	20–22km return via pass and lakes
Total distance (traverse to Roshka)	20km one-way
Duration (day hike)	8–10 hours
Duration (overnight)	2 days
Elevation gain	1,300m (Juta to pass)
Highest point	Chaukhi Pass, 3,338m
Difficulty	Strenuous
Best season	Late June–September
Start	Juta village, Kazbegi region
End (day)	Juta village (loop)
End (traverse)	Roshka village, Khevsureti

Getting to Juta

Juta is a small mountain village in the Sno Valley, approximately 16km south of Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). The approach from Stepantsminda follows the main valley road south through Sno before turning up into the mountains toward Juta. The road is unsealed above the valley floor and increasingly rough as it gains altitude — a standard car can manage in dry conditions, but a 4WD is more comfortable and necessary when wet.

From Stepantsminda: Shared 4WD taxis gather near the central square and the Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. The ride takes 30–40 minutes and costs 10–15 GEL per person for a shared vehicle, or 60–80 GEL for a private hire. Negotiate the return pickup time if coming back the same day.

From Tbilisi: The most convenient option is a day trip that combines the Kazbegi area with transport from the capital. The drive on the Georgian Military Highway takes approximately two hours to Stepantsminda, then the 4WD transfer to Juta adds another 40 minutes.

Book a guided Kazbegi and Juta hiking day trip from Tbilisi

Juta village itself has a handful of guesthouses — adequate for overnight stays, nothing luxurious — and a small cluster of homes whose residents have been hosting hikers for years. The village sits at 2,150m; the air already has that quality of altitude that sharpens everything.

Route description

Juta to Chaukhi Pass base (the towers section)

From the village, a clear track heads northeast up the valley, following the Chaukhistskali stream. For the first 3–4km the walking is gentle, the gradient easy, the Chaukhi towers slowly revealing themselves ahead as the valley straightens. This is good warm-up terrain — the ground is grassy, the stream beside you, the towers growing with every bend.

At around 2,700m the path steepens and the towers come into full view: a cluster of granite spires of extraordinary verticality, their faces streaked orange and grey, utterly unlike the rounded summits that characterise most of the Caucasus skyline. These are Georgia’s answer to the Dolomites, and the comparison is not overreaching. Rock climbers come specifically for these walls.

The trail continues through rocky terrain below the towers — worth pausing here for photographs, for water, for a breath — before the final steep ascent to the pass itself.

The ascent to Chaukhi Pass (3,338m)

The climb from the tower base to the pass is the hardest section of the route: 400m of elevation gain over broken scree and rocky switchbacks with minimal shade. In early season (June), residual snow may cover the upper section; late July and August offer the cleanest conditions. September, if the weather holds, is perhaps the finest — the clarity at altitude is exceptional.

The pass is marked by a cairn and offers the first view into the Abudelauri valley and Khevsureti beyond. This is the boundary between the Kazbegi region (Mtskheta-Mtianeti) and Khevsureti — two of Georgia’s most distinctive highland cultures, separated by this ridge of rock and snow.

In fine weather, linger here as long as you can afford. The panorama encompasses the Chaukhi massif on one side and the Khevsureti ridgeline on the other, with the Abudelauri Lakes directly below.

Descent to the Abudelauri Lakes

The descent into Khevsureti is steep and requires care — particularly on the upper section where loose rock demands deliberate footwork and trekking poles earn their keep. The path is marked by cairns and occasional painted rock indicators; it is followable, but attention is required.

The three lakes appear below in sequence. The White Lake (Tetri Tbilisi), highest and nearest the pass, is pale with glacial silt. The Green Lake (Mwvane Tbili) sits at the cirque’s centre, its colour derived from mineral runoff. The Blue Lake (Lurji Tbili) is the lowest and deepest, its extraordinary blue the product of depth and clarity. Seeing all three in a single afternoon — each distinct, each beautiful in a different register — is one of the genuinely surprising pleasures of Georgian mountain travel.

A basic shepherd’s shelter and in high season a small camp operate near the Green Lake, where hikers spend the night. There is nothing here in the way of infrastructure; what there is, instead, is the kind of silence and mountain immensity that makes the journey feel completely worthwhile.

Return to Juta (day hike)

Fit hikers returning to Juta the same day retrace the ascent route — the pass, the descent through the towers section, and the valley walk back. Allow three to four hours from the lakes to Juta. It is a long day (total 8–10 hours moving time) and an early start from Juta — no later than 07:00 — is essential.

Continuation to Roshka (traverse, day 2)

The full traverse from the Abudelauri Lakes down to Roshka village in Khevsureti is one of the finest mountain walks in Georgia. The route descends the Abudelauri Valley for approximately 7km before reaching Roshka, a small village with basic guesthouses and access to the Khevsureti road.

From Roshka, getting out requires either a shared 4WD to the Khevsureti road and then to the main Georgian Military Highway, or a pre-arranged vehicle. Logistics here are more complex than Juta; a guide with local contacts is invaluable for the return. The traverse makes most sense as part of a longer Khevsureti itinerary rather than a pure day trip.

Self-guided vs. guided

The route to the pass and back is manageable self-guided in good visibility with offline maps downloaded (Wikiloc has several verified GPX tracks for this route). The trail is well-used in summer and the path generally clear.

That said, the Chaukhi area deserves respect. The altitude (3,338m is significant for unacclimatised hikers), the exposed scree on the pass approach, and the potential for rapid weather change make the standard hazards meaningful. A guide is recommended for:

• Solo trekkers
• Those without prior experience at altitude
• Traverses to Roshka (navigation on the Khevsureti side is less obvious)
• Early season (June) when the pass may retain snow

Local guides can be arranged through Stepantsminda guesthouses, the tourism information point near the central square, or through Juta guesthouses directly.

Overnight options

Juta village guesthouses: Several family operations, basic but comfortable. Dinner and breakfast available. Book ahead in July–August. Prices around 50–70 GEL per person with full board.

Abudelauri Lakes camp: No formal guesthouse, but camping near the Green Lake is standard and tolerated. A basic shelter exists for emergency use. Bring your own sleeping kit, food, and fuel for cooking. Water from the stream above the lakes is clean.

Roshka (for traverse): One or two family guesthouses, basic, sporadic availability. Having a guide who can pre-arrange this is strongly recommended.

Gear

The Chaukhi Pass climb requires proper mountain gear even as a day hike:

• Boots: Waterproof, ankle-supporting hiking boots. The scree on the upper section and potential snow patches make trail runners risky.
• Layering: Temperature at the pass can be 15°C below the valley. A windproof shell and insulating layer are non-negotiable even in August.
• Trekking poles: Strongly recommended for the descent from the pass — the scree is loose and the gradient unforgiving on the knees.
• Sun protection: The UV at 3,300m is intense. Sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses.
• Water: Carry at least 2 litres from Juta; the stream before the pass is reliable for refilling with a filter.
• Emergency shelter: A foil bivvy bag weighs nothing and is sound insurance on any route this remote.

Best season

Late June–September is the reliable window. Early June sees the pass potentially blocked by late-season snow; late September offers the finest clarity but the window is closing.

July and August are peak season — the most settled weather, the most other trekkers (a comfort on a remote route), and reliable guesthouse availability in Juta. Late August and September are arguably the best conditions: clearer skies than the sometimes-thundery August afternoons, fewer hikers, and the first hints of autumn colour in the lower valleys.

Snow can fall at the pass at any time of year. Check weather forecasts and be prepared to turn back if visibility deteriorates.

Safety

• Acclimatisation: Juta sits at 2,150m — spend a night here before the pass attempt if you have come directly from Tbilisi (500m). Altitude headaches at 3,300m are common in unacclimatised visitors.
• Weather: Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. An early start (pre-dawn from Juta, reaching the pass before noon) avoids the worst of the electrical risk on exposed high ground.
• Navigation: In cloud, the scree section below the pass and the descent to the lakes are both confusing. Offline GPS is essential.
• Emergency: The nearest significant medical facility is in Stepantsminda (a Georgian army base has a medical unit; the town has basic services). Helicopter evacuation is theoretically possible from the lakes area in good weather.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Juta–Chaukhi hike suitable for beginners?

Not quite. The altitude, the length of the day, and the rough terrain on the pass section make this more suitable for hikers with some mountain experience. The valley walk to the tower base is easy enough, but beyond that point you need proper fitness, proper gear, and a realistic assessment of conditions.

Can I visit just the Chaukhi towers without going to the pass?

Yes. The walk from Juta to the base of the Chaukhi towers (approximately 8km return, 550m gain) is an excellent half-day hike in its own right. The towers are impressive from below, and the route is much shorter and less demanding than the full pass crossing. This is the right option for hikers with limited time or experience.

Are the Abudelauri Lakes all the same colour in all seasons?

The colours are most vivid in summer, when mineral concentrations are at their most distinctive. In spring and early summer the lakes may be partially frozen. The colour differentiation is most pronounced on sunny afternoons when the water is calm and the light low.

What is the difference between this route and the Juta–Roshka traverse?

They are the same route as far as the pass. The difference is what you do on the other side: the day hike returns to Juta from the lakes, while the traverse continues down to Roshka in Khevsureti. The traverse is point-to-point and requires vehicle logistics on both ends.

Is it worth hiring a horse in Juta?

Horses are available in Juta for pack carrying (useful for overnight trekkers) but cannot carry riders over the pass due to the rocky terrain above 2,700m. For a day hike, a pack horse adds cost without much benefit for a fit hiker with a day pack. For a two-day traverse with full camping gear, it is worth considering.

Related guides

• Kazbegi destination guide — the greater Kazbegi and Khevi region
• Best hikes in Georgia — the full ranking of Georgia’s top trails
• Tbilisi to Kazbegi — getting to the region and base logistics
• Shatili trek guide — deep Khevsureti, the next frontier
• Adventure itinerary — the 10-day active Georgia itinerary
• Trekking itinerary — the 14-day Caucasus trekking circuit