Best tours in Samtskhe-Javakheti: cave cities, castles, and volcanic lakes

Samtskhe-Javakheti: Georgia’s most layered historical landscape

The southern region of Samtskhe-Javakheti contains, within a relatively compact area, an extraordinary density of historical monuments, natural landscapes, and cultural contrasts. A 12th-century cave city carved into a volcanic cliff by a medieval Georgian queen. A reconstructed Ottoman castle in a market town. A fortress at the confluence of two rivers used by every major power from antiquity to the 18th century. A high volcanic plateau of mineral lakes bordering Armenia and Turkey, home to an Armenian-speaking Georgian citizenry who maintain their own distinct food and cultural tradition.

Most international visitors encounter this region through the classic Borjomi-Rabati-Vardzia day trip from Tbilisi — a long but rewarding route through the Mtkvari River valley that packs three very different site types into a single day. Deeper exploration of Samtskhe-Javakheti rewards those who allocate two or three days to the region, allowing them to reach Khertvisi, the Javakheti plateau, and the thermal resort town of Borjomi at proper pace.

This guide covers the best organised tours in Samtskhe-Javakheti, from the classic day trip to multi-day explorations of the volcanic highlands.

Best for first-timers: Borjomi, Rabati, and Vardzia day trip from Tbilisi

The most visited tour in Samtskhe-Javakheti is the full-day trip from Tbilisi that combines three of the region’s most significant sites. This is a long day — departing Tbilisi at 8am and returning by 9–10pm — but the three sites are complementary enough that the itinerary holds together well.

Borjomi (160 km from Tbilisi, 2–2.5 hours): The famous mineral spring spa town in the Borjomi Gorge. Borjomi mineral water — exported across the former Soviet Union and still drunk across the region — flows from natural springs in the gorge, and visitors can drink directly from the source in the town park. The gorge is beautiful, with forested slopes rising steeply above the river, and the old spa architecture (late 19th century Russian Imperial resort style) gives the town a melancholy faded grandeur.

Rabati Castle, Akhaltsikhe (another 60 km southwest): A medieval fortress town that was massively reconstructed and partly rebuilt in 2011–2012 — the subject of some controversy among heritage architects, but an undeniably dramatic site. The castle complex contains a mosque, a church, a synagogue, and a fortress tower in close proximity, reflecting the long overlap of Muslim, Christian, and Jewish communities in this historically contested region.

Vardzia (another 70 km south): The most spectacular cave complex in Georgia — a 13th-century cave city carved into the volcanic tuff cliff of the Erusheti Mountain above the Mtkvari River. At its height, Vardzia contained over 3,000 chambers across 13 levels: dwellings, workshops, wine cellars, and the exquisite cave church of the Assumption, decorated with contemporaneous frescoes including a portrait of Queen Tamar who commissioned the complex. A significant monastic community still occupies part of the lower levels.

Book the Borjomi, Rabati, and Vardzia day trip from Tbilisi

Best cultural tour: Vardzia cave city with specialist guide

Vardzia merits a visit with a guide who can explain what you are actually looking at — the history of its construction under Queen Tamar (who ruled the Georgian kingdom at its territorial apex in the late 12th and early 13th century), the Mongol invasion that triggered the abandonment of much of the complex, the earthquake of 1283 that sheared away the outer cliff face and exposed the previously hidden cave network to daylight, and the survival of the monastic community through centuries of Ottoman rule of the surrounding region.

A specialist guide turns the rock-cut chambers from an impressive but contextless labyrinth into a legible piece of medieval urban history. The fresco in the cave church of the Assumption — showing Tamar and her father King George III in contemporaneous images — is one of the few confirmed portraits of medieval Georgian monarchs and is remarkable for its immediacy and quality.

The site requires moderate fitness — the path climbs approximately 200 metres vertically through the cave complex, on stone steps cut directly into the tuff. Allow two to three hours for a thorough visit.

Book a specialist guided tour of Vardzia cave city

Best for castle lovers: Khertvisi fortress

Khertvisi Fortress — on the road between Akhaltsikhe and Vardzia, at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Paravani rivers — is one of the oldest continuously occupied fortresses in Georgia. The site has been a strategic military point since at least the 2nd century BCE, occupied successively by the Iberian kingdom, Rome, Persia, the Arab caliphate, the medieval Georgian kingdom, the Mongols, the Ottomans, and finally Russia. The current visible fortifications date primarily to the 10th–14th centuries, with later Ottoman and Russian additions.

The location is spectacular — a steep rocky promontory above the confluence of two rivers, with the fortress walls following the natural rock formation, and the river valley stretching away in both directions through deep gorge scenery. Khertvisi is typically combined with the Vardzia tour as an additional stop on the road — it is 30 km north of Vardzia and only requires 45 minutes to an hour on site.

Visitors who include Khertvisi in their itinerary consistently rate it among their highlights of the Samtskhe-Javakheti day, yet it appears on relatively few tour itineraries — ask specifically for it when booking any Vardzia tour.

Best natural landscape: Javakheti Plateau and volcanic lakes

The Javakheti Plateau — the high volcanic tableland stretching southeast from Borjomi toward the Armenian and Turkish borders — is a completely different Georgia from the forested gorges and medieval cave cities of the Mtkvari valley. The plateau sits at 1,700–2,000 metres elevation, its landscape shaped by Quaternary volcanism: black lava flows, extinct cinder cones, and a series of mineral-rich lakes occupying volcanic craters and basins.

Paravani Lake (the largest lake in Georgia), Tabatskuri Lake, and Kartsakhi Lake are the main water bodies, and the plateau is a significant wetland for migratory birds. The landscape in early summer — wildflowers across the volcanic grasslands, the lakes turning cobalt blue in the afternoon light, the distant cone of Didi Abuli (3,301m) dominating the eastern horizon — is beautiful in a completely different way from the mountain Caucasus.

The plateau is home primarily to Georgian citizens of Armenian heritage, and the local towns of Akhalkalaki and Ninotsminda have a distinct cultural atmosphere — Armenian-language signs alongside Georgian, churches of both Georgian Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic confession, and local food reflecting the Armenian highland culinary tradition.

Book a Javakheti Plateau and volcanic lakes day trip from Tbilisi

Multi-day option: Samtskhe-Javakheti circuit (2–3 days)

Two nights in the region — staying in Borjomi on night one, Akhaltsikhe or a guesthouse near Vardzia on night two — allows for a completely different relationship with the landscape than a single long day trip permits.

Day one: Drive from Tbilisi to Borjomi. Afternoon in the Borjomi Gorge, mineral spring, and park. Overnight in Borjomi.

Day two: Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe in the morning. Drive south via Khertvisi Fortress to Vardzia. Two to three hours at Vardzia. Overnight in Akhaltsikhe or in a small guesthouse in the Vardzia area.

Day three: Javakheti Plateau — drive east toward Akhalkalaki and Tabatskuri Lake. Return to Tbilisi via the Borjomi gorge and the main highway.

This pacing transforms the experience of Vardzia in particular — arriving at the cave city at 9am before the day-trip groups arrive from Tbilisi, with the morning light on the carved cliff face and the monks conducting their morning liturgy in the cave church, is something that a day tripper from Tbilisi (who arrives around noon) simply cannot replicate.

Book a 2-day private guided Samtskhe-Javakheti tour from Tbilisi

Budget option: marshrutka to Akhaltsikhe and local connections

Akhaltsikhe is the practical hub for independent travellers in Samtskhe-Javakheti. Shared marshrutkas from Tbilisi’s Didube bus station reach Akhaltsikhe in approximately 3 hours (12–15 GEL). From Akhaltsikhe, local taxis and occasional marshrutkas connect to Borjomi (30 minutes, 5–8 GEL) and to Vardzia (approximately 60 GEL for a return private taxi, negotiated at the Akhaltsikhe taxi stand).

Guesthouses in Akhaltsikhe and in the Borjomi area range from 40–80 GEL per night including breakfast, making this one of the more affordable multi-night regional explorations in Georgia. The Vardzia entrance fee is 7 GEL. Rabati Castle entrance is 5 GEL.

Luxury option: private driver and historian for the full circuit

A private Samtskhe-Javakheti tour with a specialist historian — covering the full circuit of Borjomi, Rabati, Khertvisi, and Vardzia over two days, with a private vehicle, restaurant reservations, and English-speaking specialist guide — is the optimal way to absorb a region where the historical depth repays expert interpretation.

The difference between visiting Vardzia with a general driver-guide and with a specialist in Georgian medieval history is the difference between seeing impressive caves and understanding a complete medieval civilisation. The private format also allows for the early-morning Vardzia visit that transforms the experience.

How to choose your Samtskhe-Javakheti tour

From Tbilisi, one day only: The classic Borjomi-Rabati-Vardzia day trip is the right choice. Accept that it is a long day and book an early-departing tour.

Two days available: Stay overnight in Borjomi or Akhaltsikhe and gain the early-morning Vardzia visit, plus time to add Khertvisi Fortress.

History enthusiast: Prioritise Vardzia with a specialist guide, and add Khertvisi as a complementary fortress stop. The cave church frescoes at Vardzia require time and context.

Nature and landscape: Add the Javakheti Plateau as a half-day or full-day extension from Akhaltsikhe — the volcanic lakes and highland scenery are completely different from anything else in the itinerary.

FAQ

How far is Vardzia from Tbilisi? Approximately 250 km by road — around 3.5 hours without stops. With Borjomi and Rabati Castle added as stops, the drive to Vardzia takes most of the day. An organised tour is strongly recommended.

Is Borjomi mineral water actually drinkable at the spring? Yes — the springs in the Borjomi town park flow freely and visitors can drink directly from the source, as Georgians have done for well over a century. The water is warm, strongly sulphurous, and very mineral — an acquired taste, but the experience is genuine.

Can I visit Vardzia independently? Yes, with a rental car. The road from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia (70 km) is paved and manageable in a standard car. Without a car, a private taxi from Akhaltsikhe is the most practical option.

What is the Javakheti Plateau like in winter? Cold, frequently snow-covered, and bleak — the plateau sits at high elevation and sees serious winters. Summer (June–September) is the best season for the lakes and grasslands.

Are there good restaurants in the region? Akhaltsikhe has reasonable restaurants. Borjomi, as a long-established resort town, has a good selection. Vardzia and the surrounding villages have small cafés but limited restaurant options — pack a lunch for long days.

Related guides

• Cave cities of Georgia — Vardzia, Uplistsikhe, and David Gareja in comparative context
• Day trips from Tbilisi — the Borjomi-Vardzia day trip in the context of all Tbilisi day trips
• Best thermal baths in Georgia — Borjomi mineral springs and spa tradition
• Best time to visit Georgia — seasonal planning for south Georgia