Southern Georgia’s plateau world: ancient, remote, and unforgettable
Samtskhe-Javakheti is the region that rewards the traveller willing to go a little further and stay a little longer. Stretching south from the Borjomi Gorge across the volcanic plateau of Javakheti to the Armenian and Turkish borders, this is a landscape of extremes: deep forested gorges giving way to open highland plains, medieval strongholds looming above river valleys, and a cave city carved into a volcanic cliff that represents one of the most audacious feats of medieval architecture anywhere in the world.
The region has historically been a meeting point of Georgian, Armenian, Ottoman, and Persian cultures — a fact reflected in the extraordinary density of historical sites and in the multi-ethnic character of the population (the Javakheti plateau has a significant Armenian-speaking community that has inhabited the area for centuries). It is less visited than Tbilisi and Kakheti but arguably the region that most rewards independent exploration.
Borjomi: the spa town in the gorge
Borjomi is one of the most famous names in Georgia — and in the Soviet world generally — as the source of Borjomi mineral water, a naturally carbonated, sodium-bicarbonate-rich spring water that was exported throughout the Soviet Union and remains one of Georgia’s most recognisable products internationally.
The town itself sits in the narrow Borjomi Gorge, where the Mtkvari River has cut a deep valley through heavily forested hills. The setting is beautiful: dense mixed forest on steep valley walls, the river rushing below, and the town stretched along the valley floor in a mix of 19th-century Russian spa architecture and Soviet-era development.
The Borjomi Central Park, where the mineral springs emerge, is the main attraction. You can drink the naturally carbonated water directly from the spring (warm, sulphurous, and distinctly medicinal in flavour — an acquired taste that many visitors do not acquire). The park is pleasant for walking, with a cable car ascending to a higher viewpoint and several hiking trails into the surrounding forest.
The Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, one of the largest protected areas in the Caucasus, is accessible from the town and offers multi-day hiking routes through beech and fir forest with basic backcountry shelters.
Rabati Castle: the fortress reborn
Akhaltsikhe (“New Fortress” in Georgian), the regional capital, takes its name from the Rabati Castle that dominates the city on a rocky ridge above the Potskhovi River. The original fortress dates to the 9th century; the complex as it stands today reflects centuries of Georgian, Ottoman, and Russian construction and reconstruction.
A dramatic and controversial restoration project completed in 2012 transformed Rabati into a comprehensive heritage complex including a Georgian Orthodox church, a mosque, a synagogue, a castle museum, a hotel, and reconstructed medieval streetscapes — all within the fortified walls. Critics argued the restoration was too comprehensive and too Disneyland; defenders pointed out that a crumbling ruin is less informative and less visited than a legible historical complex. Whatever your view of the restoration philosophy, Rabati is now one of the most visited sites in southern Georgia and genuinely illuminates the region’s multi-religious past.
Vardzia: the cave city in the cliff
Vardzia is the most spectacular and most discussed site in Samtskhe-Javakheti — a cave monastery complex carved into the volcanic tuff of the Erusheti massif above the Mtkvari River, created in the 12th century under Queen Tamar and representing the highest achievement of medieval Georgian rock-cutting architecture.
At its peak, Vardzia comprised 13 floors of cave dwellings, churches, wine cellars, granaries, and defensive galleries carved into a 500-metre-long cliff face — home to some 2,000 monks and a shelter for the civilian population during Mongol invasions. An earthquake in 1283 sheared away the cliff face that had concealed the caves from the outside, and subsequent Mongol and Persian raids reduced the population, but the complex was never entirely abandoned.
What you see today are several hundred accessible cave rooms spread across a cliff face about 50 metres high. The Dormition Church, the complex’s main chapel, contains extraordinary 12th-century frescoes including a renowned portrait of Queen Tamar — one of the finest examples of medieval Georgian painting. The wine cellar zone, with its 185 qvevri vessels still sunk into the rock floor, illustrates the scale of the monastic agricultural economy.
The site is a 100km drive south of Akhaltsikhe along the Mtkvari Valley. It can be visited as a day trip from Borjomi or Akhaltsikhe, or as part of a longer southern circuit. For a guided day trip from Tbilisi that includes Borjomi, Rabati, and Vardzia, a Borjomi, Rabati and Vardzia day trip covers all three sites efficiently.
Bakuriani: Georgia’s family ski resort
The village of Bakuriani, 30km south of Borjomi in the Trialeti Mountains, is Georgia’s main family ski destination — a more laid-back and accessible alternative to Gudauri. The resort sits at 1,700 metres and has several ski lifts covering mostly beginner and intermediate terrain. The season runs approximately from December through March.
In summer, Bakuriani transforms into a pleasant hill resort with cool temperatures ideal for hiking, mountain biking, and relaxation. The Bakuriani–Borjomi narrow-gauge railway (the “kukushka” — Georgian for cuckoo) is a slow and charming mountain train that runs through the forested valley between the two towns, taking about 2.5 hours for a journey of 37km.
The Javakheti plateau
South of Akhaltsikhe, the landscape opens dramatically onto the Javakheti plateau — a volcanic highland at 2,000–2,500 metres dotted with crater lakes, ancient stone churches, and almost no trees. The largest lake, Paravani, covers 37 square kilometres and is one of the highest lakes in the Caucasus; it freezes completely in winter and is surrounded by grasslands that support large flocks of migratory birds in spring and autumn.
The town of Akhalkalaki is the main settlement of the plateau and the administrative centre of Georgia’s Armenian-majority population. The medieval fortresses and early Christian basilicas scattered across the plateau — many of them in varying states of ruin and inaccessibility — reward the traveller with a serious interest in the archaeology of the early Christian Caucasus.
Practical information
Samtskhe-Javakheti is best reached by car from Tbilisi (approximately 2.5 hours to Borjomi on the main highway). Marshrutkas connect Tbilisi to Akhaltsikhe and Borjomi. The full Borjomi–Vardzia circuit in a single day is long but manageable from Tbilisi if you start early. See the getting around Georgia guide for transport details, and the best time to visit guide for seasonal guidance on road conditions in this high-altitude region.
Frequently asked questions about Samtskhe-Javakheti
Can I visit Vardzia as a day trip from Tbilisi?
Yes, but it is a long day. Tbilisi to Vardzia is about 230km (approximately 3–3.5 hours each way). Most visitors combine the day with Borjomi and Rabati stops, which adds to the driving but makes the long journey worthwhile. An organised day tour from Tbilisi is the most efficient option; the Borjomi, Rabati and Vardzia tour handles all logistics.
How does the Vardzia cave city compare to Uplistsikhe?
Both are extraordinary rock-cut sites but very different in character. Uplistsikhe (near Gori) is older and more ruined, predating Christianity and representing a pagan urban culture. Vardzia is medieval Christian, much larger in scale, and has better-preserved decorative elements including its famous frescoes. Uplistsikhe is closer to Tbilisi; Vardzia requires a dedicated day or overnight trip. Our cave cities guide covers both in detail.
Is Borjomi mineral water really good for health?
Borjomi water has a high mineral content — sodium, bicarbonate, and sulphates — and has historically been promoted for digestive health benefits, particularly for gastritis and kidney conditions. It is not recommended for people with hypertension due to the high sodium content, and should not be consumed in large quantities without medical guidance. As a beverage, it is distinctly acquired-taste territory; many people love it, many do not.
What is the best base for exploring the region?
Borjomi offers the most pleasant accommodation options and the easiest access to both Rabati (45 minutes) and Vardzia (1.5 hours). Akhaltsikhe is more central to the region but less attractive as a base. For the Javakheti plateau, Akhalkalaki is the practical base but has limited accommodation.
Are there any border crossing options from Samtskhe-Javakheti?
Yes — the Vale border crossing to Turkey (near Akhaltsikhe) and several crossings to Armenia (particularly at Ninotsminda/Bavra and Akhalkalaki/Gyumri) are in this region. The crossings to Armenia are straightforward and well-used; the Turkey crossing is less common for Western tourists but functional. Check current entry requirements for both countries before planning.